Denim vs Twill: What's the Difference?

All denim is a twill, but not all twill is denim. How the two fabrics differ in weave, dye, fading and use, and when to choose each for your collection.

EVOMODA Team

11/1/20262 min read

"Is denim the same as twill?" It's one of the most common questions we hear from new clothing brands. The short answer: all denim is a twill, but not all twill is denim. Knowing the difference helps you choose the right fabric for jeans, chinos, jackets and uniforms.

What is twill?

Twill is a type of weave, not a specific fabric. In a twill weave, each weft yarn passes over one or more warp yarns and then under two or more, with each row shifted by one step. This creates the diagonal lines (called wales) you can see on the surface of the fabric.

The diagonal structure gives twill some useful properties:

  • It is strong and resists tearing.

  • It drapes well and hides stains and wrinkles better than a plain weave.

  • It can be woven more tightly, which makes it durable.

Twill can be made from cotton, polyester, wool, viscose or blends, and in any colour. Familiar twill fabrics include chino, gabardine, drill and herringbone.

What is denim?

Denim is a specific kind of cotton twill. What makes it denim is how it is dyed:

  • The warp yarns (running lengthwise) are dyed, traditionally with indigo.

  • The weft yarns (running across) are left undyed or white.

Because the twill weave shows mostly warp on the face, denim looks blue on the outside and much lighter on the inside. Indigo also sits mainly on the surface of the yarn, which is why denim fades in that distinctive way as it is worn and washed.

Key differences at a glance

  • Definition: twill is a weave; denim is a fabric made with that weave.

  • Colour: twill is usually dyed the same colour throughout; denim has a coloured face and a light back.

  • Fading: denim fades and develops character over time; twill keeps a more even colour.

  • Fibre: twill can be any fibre; denim is traditionally cotton, sometimes with a little elastane.

  • Look: twill reads as smart-casual; denim reads as casual and rugged.

When to choose denim

Choose denim for jeans, denim jackets, overshirts, dungarees and any product where the classic blue look and natural fading are part of the appeal. Denim also works for bags and aprons where you want a rugged feel.

When to choose twill

Choose twill for chinos, cargo trousers, uniforms, workwear, blazers and jackets that should look neat and keep an even colour. Cotton twill and poly-cotton drill are popular for school and corporate uniforms because they are hard-wearing and easy to maintain.

Can a brand use both?

Yes, and many do. A typical casual collection might use mid-weight denim for jeans and jackets, and a cotton or stretch twill for chinos and shorts in a range of colours. Both are durable, both sew well, and together they cover most everyday bottomwear.

Conclusion

Think of twill as the family and denim as one well-known member of it. If you want the classic indigo look that fades with wear, choose denim. If you want a clean, even colour and a smarter finish, choose twill. Need help deciding? Ask the EVOMODA team or see our denim collection.